Friday, 4 August 2017

Isle of Bute holiday

Those planning a vacation in Britain see from afar the whole island as one country, which is understandable as from tip to toe it's less than 600 miles. However typography and history has carved the land into three distinct countries, England, (the southern half,) with Wales occupying the lump that sticks out towards Ireland, and to the north: Scotland.

Many are attracted to Scotland because their forefathers had emigrated along with their family names, and Ancestor Researchers makeup a good proportion of each year's visitors. Then there are the golfers attracted to the wealth of distinctly difficult yet beautiful courses. Another large number of arrivals are for The Edinburgh Festival which every August hosts musicians, actors, dancers and entertainersfrom every part of the world.

I'll start my Insider Tips with some comments on Edinburgh in August. Firstly, although August is reputed to be high summer, it is also the month of thunder storms. Edinburgh is well prepared with marquees erected to protect outdoor functions, but you should bring something waterproof too. Also be prepared to pay for your constant entertainment. Yes there are street performers, a Book Fair, exhibitions on this and that, but from the smallest band playing in a pub through concerts, plays, comedians, dancers, to the Military Tattoo you'll be expected to contribute, and contribute generously. Then you'll need accommodation. The cheaper hostels will have been booked up six months in advance. The hotels and the little B&Bs are all out to test your wallet and are booked up well in advance too. However Edinburgh has good rail links to the closeby towns of Dunfermline, Linlithgow, Dunbar etc. where you can find accommodation at appropriate prices.
Now a similar argument applies to Golf Courses. The world renown links at St Andrews or North Berwick require a healthy bank balance to cover your charges and accommodation. Yet Scotland is full of very interesting and beautiful golf clubs where you will be made feel welcome at a fraction of the price.
Perhaps you have decided to tour the highlands and islands and thought the best way was to hire a car. But Scotland has very few highways. What there are consist of two-way wiggling roads, full of touring buses and caravans throughout the summer. Parallel to these roads are passenger railways which provide fabulous views of the terrain at subsidised fares. Where there is not a railway there will be a bus service, and it is perfectly possible to travel throughout the highlands and islands using public transport.
To the west of Edinburgh is the City of Glasgow. It has to be said that although there are theatres, concerts, opera and galleries in Glasgow, these are a dressing on what is an industrial centre where the industry has left, leaving many social problems on the streets. Drunkeness, drugs and violence are readily witnessed in Glasgow. Yet the city does have many visitors that remain unscathed, but one should be aware of the risks.
Down the River Clyde from Glasgow and out to sea are two easily accessible islands that provide vacation destinations every bit as good as the well known Isle of Skye and Isle of Mull. The Isle of Arran has high mountains and a road running around the coast. This is a favourite with climbers, geologists and outdoors enthusiasts. There are two large, cheap Youth Hostels on the island, many well priced bed-and-breakfast houses, a whisky distillery and a beer brewery. That sorts everyone out! There is also a fine castle, beaches, forests and good restaurants.
To the north of Arran lies the Isle of Bute. Here the countryside is predominantly pasture in small fields, lanes, woods and highlands in the north. The Arran mountains across the water provide simply stunning scenery. There is an ancient castle, spooky prehistoric standing stones and a Gothic Stately Home, Mount Stuart House, open to the public. Bute attracts hikers, bikers, anglers and yachtsmen. There is also bountiful birdlife, deer, seals, hares and goats. There are four golf courses, all inexpensive. Hotels and restaurants are affordable, and there is a bus service over a minor ferry into the Argyll highlands with routes to the other islands of the west.
Both Arran and Bute have good local bus services and frequent ferries to the mainland linked to the airports and Glasgow by train.
I hope this guides you in your planning and if the Edinburgh Festival is not important to you we find the best weather in Scotland is in June and September.

Travel Blogs

Sunday, 25 August 2013

The Best Bus Trip in Britain. An Oldtime Journey From Dunoon to the Isle of Bute in a Vintage Bus.

Despite constant complaints to the contrary from the inhabitants, Britain has very good, cheap and reliable Public Transport. Nowhere is this more evident than in Scotland, where there are precious few roads weaving across the wild and difficult terrain. Along these routes you will find regular buses that receive financial support from the State to subsidize the fares, and provide an excellent and cheap way for the visitor to discover the country.. The town of Dunoon has seen better days. Over a hundred years ago the merchants of Glasgow built the grand stone houses on the shore for their families to escape the foul air of the city, generated by coal, steam and horses. In more recent times Dunoon felt the benefit of the US Navy Submarine Base on the River Clyde, the GIs spending their leisure time and US dollars on taxis, restaurants and the ubiquitous Scotch Whisky. Today the Americans have left and the town gets along on the meagre income from the elderly revisiting the seaside where they had spent their childhood vacations. Nevertheless, the town's fine buildings and outstanding views across the mouth of the River Clyde and out to sea still can charm the curious traveller and provide an excellent stopover on a tour of the region. Three times an hour there is a train from Glasgow Central Station to the harbour at Gourock, which lies south of Dunoon, just across the river. Twice an hour a ferry from here carries the passengers over the water to indulge in ice-cream, fish-and-chips, and a selection of famous malt whiskies in the pubs of Dunoon. But the seasoned explorer will see the old town not just as a day-trip destination, but as a stepping stone to the fabulous west coast of Scotland with its islands and highlands. The bus service uses vintage vehicles from the 1950s to carry the faithful pilgrims to seek the wonders of West Scotland. Early in the morning, and twice in the afternoon these red and cream motorised beasts climb the hill out of town, above the loch that borders Dunoon and out into the forest. Soon the winding lane becomes single track driving with passing places every hundred yards or so to allow oncoming cars to drive past the bus.The way goes higher and higher before plunging down into a dark valley clad with trees and fast-flowing streams. Dramatic hairpin bends become the norm as the way winds on providing here a glimpse of highlands beyond, and there a vista of islands lying out in a loch. Farm tracks join the route where the school kids leave to hike the last two miles home in the hills. The constant changing of gears, alarming steep descents and continuous spiral bends bring the passengers together in their shared experience and their mutual admiration for the driver manipulating his machine along the way to the Isle of Bute. The variety of sudden scenery combined with the helter-skelter drive has an exhilarating effect on all on board, and the driver sits over the wheel in studied concentration. An hour after leaving Dunoon, the bus pulls over into the forest and sits waiting. This is a meeting place of small Scottish buses. After a few minutes, roaring around the corner comes a similar bus to ours, but from the sign on the front it's heading for another outpost on the coast where ferries go across to further islands in the region. At this spot travellers can interchange buses to make their way all across the map. The drivers greet each other like brothers, and shuffle their loads into the correct buses. Ours will motor on now more steadily into the tiny hamlet of Colintraive, little more than a small hotel and bar, and a few farm houses... and the drive-on ferry across to our destination, the Isle of Bute. Bute has been overlooked by tourists. They believe it's necessary to travel north to the Isles of Mull or Skye to experience true Scotland. This attitude ensures that Mull and Skye are full of visitors and those catering to them, while Bute remains unspoilt by any such developments. There are castles, prehistoric standing stones, empty beaches, a glorious Historic House open to the public, and a very good bus service! The bus from Dunoon drives onto the ferry at Colintraive and in ten minutes reaches the island. The road stretches south alongside the strait that separates Bute from the mainland for seven miles before encircling a bay full of sailing yachts bobbing at anchor. This is the village of Port Bannatyne. There's a small marina, a boatyard, a castle, the Post Office and shop which also acts as a cafe. And then there's The Russian Tavern. The Russian Tavern was a typical old village inn which was bought in 2001 by a Russian family who decided to treat the visiting yachties to Russian food and drink and provide inexpensive accommodation. It's now a vital part of the village and touring yachts come in specifically to relax and try the freshly cooked cuisine. From outside the tavern buses leave every half an hour for Rothesay, the main town on the island. There is also a hop-on hop-off tour bus that goes around the island five times a day. Here too are hiking trails going along the spine of the island through moorland, highland, pasture and forest. Rothesay is built around the ancient castle. All of the island's needs are provided for with hospital, supermarket, schools, a concert hall and cinema. There are a variety of hotels, bars and restaurants, but the key facility is the main ferry from the island. Each hour a smart new ship sails across to the harbour of Wemyss Bay, which is linked directly with Glasgow by train. Standing in Guildford Square in Rothesay, and seeing the vintage bus pull away returning on its route over the hills to Dunoon, it is difficult to picture in the mind's eye the amazing and exciting 90 minute journey it's just started. A magical trip indeed, and not publicised or mentioned in any of the well read guide books. Perhaps I'll see you on the bus one day!