Getaway on THE ISLE OF BUTE

2008-07-25T03:52:00.000-07:00

The Isle of Bute lies off western Scotland, one of a handful of islands in the mouth of the River Clyde, north of the well-known Isle of Arran, and almost touching those fingers of Argyll that jut out into the Atlantic. I came across Bute in an article in the Sunday Independent about the marriage of Stella, daughter of Sir Paul McCartney of The Beatles fame. My road atlas showed me there was a railway between Wemyss Bay, (where the Bute ferry sets sail,) and Prestwick Airport, home of the cheap cheapo RyanAir, (God Bless Them!) So with tickets costing pennies my wife and I and two kids flew to Ayrshire. Prestwick Airport is a dream compared with London Airports...you just pick up your gear, up an escalator and onto the train! And good ol' RyanAir has a deal that your train fare is half-price! More good news at Wemyss Bay: two spanking new luxury ferries leaving every 45 minutes with a fare of just over a fiver. The 35 minute crossing had simply astounding views of islands and water, old lighthouses and pretty stone houses along the waterfront of Bute.

We landed at Rothesay Habour, direct in the centre of Rothesay town, a huddle of old shops and offices around the walls of an ancient castle. Honour and the tourist office dictated we visit the castle, the museum, the Victorian lavatories and eat greasy fish and chips. It was interesting to see a large painted sign on the chippie claiming to be the best in Scotland, or Britain or the world, and it really doesn't say much about the standard of the rest of them! Still that will teach me I guess; perhaps fish and chips tastes better when you're 16? My second mistake was the "boutique" hotel the tourist office sent us to. I'm pretty sure the boutique is IKEA, and having spent all their energy on making the furniture there's no energy left for welcoming the guests! Enough complaining! We slept, left without their industrial sausage and egg, and walked out of Rothesay north along a coastal road lined with fine stone buildings looking out across the water to the Argyll hills.

Three miles meandering brought us to a tiny fishing and yacht habour, Port Bannatyne. Right in the centre by a stone-pier where the seafood is landed, stands a traditional stone-built village inn, The Port Royal Hotel, with a sign proclaiming "RUSSIAN TAVERN". What a find! A Russian family had taken over this fishermen's pub and turned it into a remarkable hostelry, rivalling a London gastropub for good food, real ales and cosy comfort. Here we ate real fresh seafood, relaxed over a pint or two and discovered they had four very economical guestrooms. We booked in! The views were amazing, the company delightful and after a good walk up the neighbouring hills and back, we ate dinner: langoustines, Hare Goulash and baked pheasant. What a meal and what a place!

After breakfast we took a little bus from outside the tavern back to Rothesay and south along the coast road about 8 miles to Mount Stuart House. Another hidden Gem! In amongst woodland and gardens is a Victorian Gothic masterpiece which Hollywood should have discovered years ago for some Tale of Mystery. It was here that Stella McCartney was married in the Italian marble chapel,... just left, er right and left again...along a panelled cloister...just round the corner...across a grand hall..ah there it is! My words cannot do this justice so here I'll put their website for you to marvel at in private: http://www.mountstuart.com/

From Mount Stuart we wandered further south along the one road to Kilchattan Bay. A pony-riding stable, and a friendly horsey lady were to make my kids' day. They went horsing down an empty sandy beach allowing my wife and I to surprise the couple running a well-detached Victorian hotel overlooking the sea. A tinkling bell as we entered, faded tartan carpets leading to a bar straight from the 1950s or 40s. I fully expected Peter Sellers with one of his character voices to serve us, but it was just a hard-worked young couple. They told us that until last year the snooker table had been under a large canopy advertising KitKat cigarettes....now that is 1940s! Wonderful views and we were able to watch the equine progress of our kids.

In the hills from Kilchattan Bay is an Iron Age fortified settlement and the ruins of the 6th century St. Blanes Chapel. A fine walk with atmospheric remains to inspect. Inspect we did with rumbling stomachs,and down the hills to catch the bus back to the Famous Russian Tavern. Beef Strogonoff tonight and probably one too many pints of Real Ale poured directly from the casks on the bar, listening to a young man playing at the tavern piano. Slept like four logs.

Next day we took the open-decked tour bus to the west of the island and were dropped off at Scalpsie Bay. Well, two fields away from Scalpsie Bay as this great bite of sandy cove has no road, very few visitors but over 200 seals lying about pretending to look like rocks, The Russians had told us they came here to pick blackberries in September and sure enough between sand and field was a magnificent stand of brambles waiting for autumn! The view beyond the sea is the mountains of Arran, a sight that remains embedded in my retina.

After annoying the seals to our content, we walked inland following winding lanes through woodland and fields to Loch Fad, where rowboats are for hire, and anglers pull out perch and pike and trout. Not for us. We took to the hikers' trail, The West Island Way, and through moor and bog and forest came back to Port Bannatyne and our Russian hosts. An evening of tales and repartie, while we had another distinguished meal, choosing our own freshly landed fish from the fish-bucket and having it baked, served on a bed of wild garlic leaves with wild fungi, baby new potatoes, marinaded pepper and artichoke hearts....I can still savour it in my imagination!

Early next morning, after breakfast, we boarded a minibus outside the tavern which took us to the very north of the island, where a minor shuttle ferry goes over the water for ten minutes to the Argyll mainland. The bus climbed high above the coast giving splendid views of highlands and islands. An hour along a single track road eventually brought us to the town of Dunoon, which once rivalled Blackpool as a seaside resort for Glaswegians. Taking the route they would have taken home, we used the ferry across to Gourock, another Victorian bucket-and-spade strand. We walked up the prom and had ice-cream,... why not? Then the train back to Prestwick Airport, dear RyanAir and London in one hour. So that was The Isle of Bute in a long weekend. I've written this up because I find it astounding that somewhere so close to Glasgow is completely undeveloped by tourism, industry or retirement homes, and living in another age completely. Hope that's of help to someone!

General Travel Advice: http://traveldirectory.org.uk/
Russian Tavern: http://butehotel.com/
Tourist Information details: http://www.scotland.org.uk/guide/Isle_of_Bute_Guide

Isle of Bute holiday

2008-07-25T03:48:00.000-07:00

Those planning a vacation in Britain see from afar the whole island as one country, which is understandable as from tip to toe it's less than 600 miles. However typography and history has carved the land into three distinct countries, England, (the southern half,) with Wales occupying the lump that sticks out towards Ireland, and to the north: Scotland.
Many are attracted to Scotland because their forefathers had emigrated along with their family names, and Ancestor Researchers makeup a good proportion of each year's visitors. Then there are the golfers attracted to the wealth of distinctly difficult yet beautiful courses. Another large number of arrivals are for The Edinburgh Festival which every August hosts musicians, actors, dancers and entertainersfrom every part of the world.
I'll start my Insider Tips with some comments on Edinburgh in August. Firstly, although August is reputed to be high summer, it is also the month of thunder storms. Edinburgh is well prepared with marquees erected to protect outdoor functions, but you should bring something waterproof too. Also be prepared to pay for your constant entertainment. Yes there are street performers, a Book Fair, exhibitions on this and that, but from the smallest band playing in a pub through concerts, plays, comedians, dancers, to the Military Tattoo you'll be expected to contribute, and contribute generously. Then you'll need accommodation. The cheaper hostels will have been booked up six months in advance. The hotels and the little B&Bs are all out to test your wallet and are booked up well in advance too. However Edinburgh has good rail links to the closeby towns of Dunfermline, Linlithgow, Dunbar etc. where you can find accommodation at appropriate prices.
Now a similar argument applies to Golf Courses. The world renown links at St Andrews or North Berwick require a healthy bank balance to cover your charges and accommodation. Yet Scotland is full of very interesting and beautiful golf clubs where you will be made feel welcome at a fraction of the price.
Perhaps you have decided to tour the highlands and islands and thought the best way was to hire a car. But Scotland has very few highways. What there are consist of two-way wiggling roads, full of touring buses and caravans throughout the summer. Parallel to these roads are passenger railways which provide fabulous views of the terrain at subsidised fares. Where there is not a railway there will be a bus service, and it is perfectly possible to travel throughout the highlands and islands using public transport.
To the west of Edinburgh is the City of Glasgow. It has to be said that although there are theatres, concerts, opera and galleries in Glasgow, these are a dressing on what is an industrial centre where the industry has left, leaving many social problems on the streets. Drunkeness, drugs and violence are readily witnessed in Glasgow. Yet the city does have many visitors that remain unscathed, but one should be aware of the risks.
Down the River Clyde from Glasgow and out to sea are two easily accessible islands that provide vacation destinations every bit as good as the well known Isle of Skye and Isle of Mull. The Isle of Arran has high mountains and a road running around the coast. This is a favourite with climbers, geologists and outdoors enthusiasts. There are two large, cheap Youth Hostels on the island, many well priced bed-and-breakfast houses, a whisky distillery and a beer brewery. That sorts everyone out! There is also a fine castle, beaches, forests and good restaurants.
To the north of Arran lies the Isle of Bute. Here the countryside is predominantly pasture in small fields, lanes, woods and highlands in the north. The Arran mountains across the water provide simply stunning scenery. There is an ancient castle, spooky prehistoric standing stones and a Gothic Stately Home, Mount Stuart House, open to the public. Bute attracts hikers, bikers, anglers and yachtsmen. There is also bountiful birdlife, deer, seals, hares and goats. There are four golf courses, all inexpensive. Hotels and restaurants are affordable, and there is a bus service over a minor ferry into the Argyll highlands with routes to the other islands of the west.
Both Arran and Bute have good local bus services and frequent ferries to the mainland linked to the airports and Glasgow by train.
I hope this guides you in your planning and if the Edinburgh Festival is not important to you we find the best weather in Scotland is in June and September.